Reassembly

First you will put on the oil pump. Put some gasket sealer on the pump mating surface and the block then put the gasket on and bolt it to the engine. I believe the torque specs were 18 ft lbs but don't quote me on this I am trying to do this from memory because I finished reassembling the engine back in mid August. Next is the rear main seal. Put some gasket sealer on the block and the assembly mating surface and put the gasket on and bolt it to the engine. Then put the rear main seal in the assembly and tap it in with a hammer and small socket. Next you will need to reattach the oil filter suction tube. Place a small amount of gasket sealer on the tube's mating surface and the oil pump and put the gasket on and bolt it to the engine to 12 ft lbs. Next is the girdle. Place to girdle with the arrows pointing to the front of the engine. There are 8 bolts holding the girdle on, you will need to start with the middle four bolts and put them on in a criss-cross pattern, then do the same to the outside four bolts. Those will be tightened to 58 ft lbs. Tighten in stages start with 30 ft lbs then tighten to 58 ft lbs. This is done so that the girdle doesn't go on crooked because it will cause damage when the engine is running again. Note: if the bolts do not go on easily then the girdle is crooked and you will need to smack it in place with a rubber mallet. Next is the oil pan. The rebuild kit comes with a shitty cork oil pan gasket and they tear very easily so I went to Advance Auto and got a rubber one, it even comes with plastic guide screws for easy assembly. Put a bead of gasket sealer around the mating surface of the pan and the block then put the guide screws in and put the gasket on. Lower the pan onto the block and remove the guide screws. Put the oil pan bolts back on and tighten them in a criss-cross pattern to 12 ft lbs.  Next, you can turn the engine upside right and turn the crankshaft so that the number 1 piston is in top-dead-center then put the head gaskets on and put the heads on. The heads have 8 bolts holding them on and you will need to bolt them on in a criss-cross pattern to 40 ft lbs for the first stage, then to 60 ft lbs for the second, and finally 80 ft lbs. Note: If the camshaft and rocker assembly is attached to the head then make sure the timing marks are lined up so that when you bolt the heads back on you do not tighten an open valve on to a top dead center piston.  If you didn't put the camshaft and rocker assembly on the head during head reassembly now would be the time to do it. Note: If you didn't have the hydraulic lifter keepers and didn't use small pieces of duct tape then here is a hint. When you put the rocker assembly back on make sure the arrows are all pointing the righ direction and make sure they are pointing to the front of the engine. Do not tighten it all the way so that you can have enough clearance between the rocker arm and the valve to put the lifter in plunger up so that the diesel fuel doesn't run out and the lifter doesn't fill back up with air. After all the lifters are put back on then tighten the rocker assembly to the specified torque ( I do not remember what it was so you will need to look it up). Next is the water pump. Place some gasket sealer on the pump's mating surface and the block in a thin bead and bolt it to the engine to 18 ft lbs. The pipe that goes down the center of the engine will need  new O-rings and those come with the kit. Set the pipe to the side we will deal with it later. Next is the power steering bracket. Bolt it on to 25 ft lbs. Next is the timing belt tensioner and spring ( I bough a new spring from 3sx.com for $7 and a new tensioner from Advance Auto for about $30). Put the tensioner on the motor and just put the bolt in enough to hold it in place, then put the spring on the tensioner and use a flat head screwdriver to put the spring on the nipple that sticks out from the front of the oil pump.  With the crank and cam shafts lined up with the timing marks, take the new timing belt and start with the cam shaft on the left ( sitting in front of the motor while it is on the stand), put the timing belt on the left cam shaft and down around the water pump pulley then up to the right camshaft and down to the crankshaft pulley then around the tensioner. Be patient you may have to do this process a few times because the new spring will be tight and make this process a bit of a headache, and no matter what, do not use any tool to stretch the spring out or to force the belt on or you will regret it later. After the belt is on turn the engine one full revolution and check the timing marks (make sure you turn the engine clockwise DO NOT TURN THE ENGINE COUNTER CLOCKWISE or the tensioner will lose tension and the belt will jump time) If the timing marks are good then that is good, if not you will need to take the belt back off and do it over. This process is the most crucial it is also the biggest pain in the ass. After the belt is on and the marks are good you can put the motor mount back on. There are 2 separate sizes of bolts used for the mounts the M10 bolts need to be tightened to 40 ft lbs and the M12 bolts need to be tightened to 80 ft lbs. The M12 nuts that are on the front mount also need to be tightened to 80 ft lbs. All of these bolts should be tightened in stages. The M10 bolt should be done to 20 ft lbs, then 40 ft lbs. The M12 bolts and nuts should be tightened to 40 ft lbs, then 60 ft lbs, then 80 ft lbs. Do this will all 3 motor mounts and the 2 transmission stay plates that attach to the transmission. Next it is time for the intake manifold. The gaskets to these are lead based so you should wear gloves for these. Put some gasket sealer on both sides of the gasket and slip it down over the bolts and on to the engine. Then lower the intake manifold on with the water neck towards the rear of the engine and tighten the nuts to the specified torque in a criss-cross pattern. Then put some duct tape over the holes so that nothing falls down into the intake, it would also be a good idea to put some tape over the distributor hole as well. Put the new gaskets on the valve covers and put some gasket sealer on the mating surface of the heads and tighen the two bolts for each of the covers to 18 ft lbs. Then put the fuel rail back on and tighten it to 18 ft lbs. Next is the exhaust manifolds. Put the gaskets on then the manifolds and tighten in a criss-cross pattern to 18 ft lbs. Note: the exhaust manifolds are different and most be put back on in the right place. If you are unsure about the right place then you will have to wait until the engine is back in to see if they line up with the exhaust pipes because they are not marked. Next is the dip stick. You should change the O-ring on the end of the tube with a new one from the kit. Note: The kit comes with everything you will need for the engine for every vehicle it was available in so you will not use everything so there will be plenty of the small o-rings left over. Then bolt the dip stick to the engine. Note: I did not find the torque specs for the dip stick so I just tightened it by hand. Next is the transmission gasket ( you will not find one in the kit), it is the large thin metal shield that was bolted to the engine. I forgot to put this back on before I put the flywheel and clutch assembly back on and I didn't realize it until it was time to reattach the transmission. Next is the flywheel. Put some anti-seize on the bolts and tighten them in a criss-cross pattern to the specified torque. Lastly is the clutch assembly. You will need a clutch alignment tool and the only way to get one of the plastic ones is to buy a new clutch, which would be a good idea if you had the flywheel turned or if it is an old clutch. My clutch was replaced in January of this year so I kept it. I bought a clutch pilot bearing alignment tool from Harbor Freight Tools for $8 and it worked perfectly. Congrats! The engine is fully assembled and ready to go back in.